Recipes with Sesame

Sesame runs quietly through almost every East Asian kitchen, lending a warm, toasty nuttiness that underpins far more dishes than it ever headlines. The tiny seeds appear toasted as a garnish, ground into pastes and dressings, and pressed into the fragrant oil that finishes countless stir-fries and noodle bowls. Mild on their own, they bloom into something rich and deeply savoury once heat is applied, which is why toasting is almost always the first step.

What it is and how it tastes

Sesame comes as small flat seeds in two main forms: hulled white seeds, which are mild and sweetly nutty, and unhulled black seeds, which are earthier and a touch bitter with a bolder colour. Raw, both are unremarkable; toasted, they release a deep, roasted aroma. The same seeds, pressed after roasting, yield toasted sesame oil — amber, intensely fragrant, and used by the spoonful as a seasoning rather than a frying fat. Ground further, toasted seeds become a paste that bodies out dressings and sauces. White seeds are also often left whole as a coating, clinging to dumplings, breads and fried foods where they crisp and colour in the heat.

How to prepare and toast it

To toast seeds, spread them in a dry pan over medium heat and shake or stir constantly until they turn golden and smell nutty, just a few minutes; they scorch quickly once they colour, so they must not be left unwatched. Cool them before storing or grinding. For a sesame dressing, toasted seeds are pounded or blitzed with a little oil and seasoning until coarse or smooth. Toasted sesame oil is added only at the end of cooking, off the heat, or stirred into dips and dressings — heating it hard destroys its fragrance and turns it bitter.

Buying and storing

Seeds are sold raw or pre-toasted; buying raw and toasting at home gives the freshest aroma. Choose plump, uniform seeds and oil that is clearly labelled toasted or roasted for fragrance, as opposed to pale, neutral cold-pressed sesame oil. Being oil-rich, sesame is prone to going rancid, so seal seeds and oil tightly and keep them cool and dark, or refrigerate for longer life. A sharp, off, paint-like smell means the oils have spoiled and it is time to start fresh.

Where it shines and substitutes

Sesame is everywhere in this cooking: toasted seeds and oil season the vegetables of bibimbap, the oil perfumes the marinade for bulgogi, and seeds finish a bowl of japchae glass noodles. A drizzle of the oil lifts countless stir-fries and dressings. If toasted seeds run out, a quick toast of raw ones is the fix; there is no real substitute for the oil’s fragrance. For more on stocking these staples, see the Asian pantry guide.