The Asian Pantry, Explained

Light soy sauce. The everyday salt-and-umami workhorse — thinner and saltier than dark soy. Use for seasoning stir-fries, dressings and dipping sauces.

Dark soy sauce. Thicker, less salty, slightly sweet and used mainly for colour — a little gives braises and fried rice their deep mahogany tone.

Fish sauce. Fermented anchovy sauce central to Thai and Vietnamese cooking. Pungent in the bottle, savoury and rounded in the dish. Start small.

Oyster sauce. Thick, glossy and savoury-sweet; the backbone of Cantonese stir-fries and a quick way to add body to a sauce.

Shaoxing wine. Chinese rice wine that adds depth and rounds off raw edges in marinades and stir-fries. Dry sherry is the closest substitute.

Rice vinegar. Mild and slightly sweet; brightens dressings, sushi rice and dipping sauces without the harshness of Western vinegars.

Miso. Fermented soybean paste, from light-and-sweet (shiro) to dark-and-robust (aka). The base of miso soup and a savoury hit in glazes and dressings.

Gochujang. Korean fermented chilli paste — sweet, savoury and slow-burning. Drives sauces, glazes and stews like tteokbokki.

Gochugaru. Korean dried chilli flakes, fruity rather than fiercely hot, giving kimchi and stews their red colour and gentle heat.

Doubanjiang. Sichuan fermented broad-bean-and-chilli paste; the deep, funky engine of mapo tofu and many Sichuan dishes.

Doenjang. Korean fermented soybean paste, earthier and funkier than miso, used in stews and dipping sauces.

Curry paste (Thai). Pounded blends of chillies, lemongrass, galangal and aromatics — green, red and massaman each define a curry.

Ginger. Fresh, peppery and warming; grated, sliced or julienned into nearly everything. Keeps for weeks in the fridge.

Lemongrass. Fragrant, citrusy stalk; bruise and slice for Thai and Vietnamese soups and curries.

Galangal. A sharper, more piney cousin of ginger, essential to Thai curries and tom yum. Not interchangeable with ginger.

Sichuan peppercorn. Not a chilli — it delivers the tingling, citrusy numbness (má) behind mapo tofu and dan dan noodles.

Star anise. Liquorice-sweet spice that defines pho broth and many Chinese braises.

Toasted sesame oil. A finishing oil, not a cooking one — a few drops at the end add nutty aroma. High heat destroys it.

Short-grain rice. Slightly sticky and glossy; the default for Japanese and Korean tables. Rinse until the water runs clear before cooking.

Jasmine rice. Fragrant long-grain rice, fluffy and separate — the Thai and much of the Southeast Asian standard.

Rice noodles. From thin vermicelli to wide pho ribbons; soak or briefly boil rather than overcook, and rinse to stop them clumping.

Wheat & ramen noodles. Springy egg or alkaline noodles for ramen, lo mein and stir-fries; cook just to the point of bounce.

Tapioca pearls. The chewy boba in bubble tea — boil until translucent, then steep in sugar syrup and use the same day for the best texture.

Tofu. Silken for soups and mapo tofu, firm for frying and stir-fries. Press firm tofu to expel water before searing.