Cook with
Silken for soups, firm for frying — a versatile protein that absorbs flavour.
Tofu is curdled soybean milk pressed into blocks, a mild, protein-rich staple that runs through Chinese, Japanese and Korean cooking alike. Its reputation for blandness is also its great virtue: tofu is a blank canvas that soaks up marinades, sauces and seasonings, taking on bold flavours while contributing a satisfying texture that ranges from silky and custard-like to firm and meaty depending on the type chosen.
Soy milk is set with a coagulant and pressed, much as cheese is made from curdled dairy. How much water is pressed out determines the type: silken tofu is left soft and barely set, almost like a savoury custard, while firm and extra-firm tofu is pressed denser and sturdier. On its own tofu tastes gently of soybeans and little else, which is the point — it carries other flavours rather than imposing its own, acting as a sponge for sauces and marinades. Texture is where it speaks loudest, from the delicate wobble of silken to the satisfying chew of a well-browned firm block with a golden crust.
Match the tofu to the task. Silken tofu belongs in soups, sauces and anything where a smooth, delicate texture is wanted; handle it gently as it breaks easily. Firm and extra-firm tofu suits stir-fries, skewers and pan-frying — press it first to expel water so it browns and crisps rather than stewing. Marinate pressed tofu to drive flavour in, then sear it hard for a golden crust before finishing in a sauce. Frozen and thawed firm tofu turns spongy and soaks up sauce especially well.
Buy the type the recipe calls for, as silken and firm are not interchangeable: a silken block will collapse in a stir-fry, while firm tofu turns rubbery in a delicate soup. Check the date and choose blocks that feel intact in their water, with no sour smell. Once opened, store leftovers submerged in fresh water in a sealed container in the fridge, changing the water daily to keep it fresh, and use within three or four days.
Tofu is central to silky sundubu jjigae, to spicy mapo tofu, and to a comforting bowl of miso soup. The firm types also crisp up beautifully in stir-fries and on skewers once pressed and well seasoned. Where firm tofu is wanted, a pressed paneer or a firm tempeh can stand in for texture, though neither carries borrowed flavour quite the same way. With the right type chosen and a little care over pressing and browning, tofu rewards good technique as generously as any ingredient in the kitchen. For more on the pantry it belongs to, see the Asian pantry guide.

Korean
The classic Korean kimchi stew — sour, aged kimchi simmered with pork, tofu and a deep gochugaru broth that tastes like it cooked all day but comes together

Korean
A fiery, silky Korean soft-tofu stew built on a fragrant gochugaru-and-garlic chilli oil base, finished with uncurdled tofu and a raw egg cracked in at

Chinese
Silky tofu and minced pork in a glossy, numbing-hot Sichuan sauce built on doubanjiang and ground Sichuan peppercorn — a fast, deeply savoury weeknight classic.

Thai
Stir-fried rice noodles balanced on tamarind, fish sauce and palm sugar, with prawns, egg, tofu and a crunch of peanuts — the four-flavour classic in noodle

Japanese & Ramen
A clear, savoury dashi broth loosened with miso, soft tofu and wakame — the five-minute soup at the heart of the Japanese table.
See also the Asian pantry guide for more on stocking these ingredients.
Pressing tofu squeezes out excess water so it firms up, holds its shape and browns or crisps far better when fried or roasted. To press it, wrap a block of firm tofu in a clean cloth or paper towels, set it on a plate and rest a weight such as a heavy pan on top for twenty to thirty minutes. Pour off the liquid that collects. Pressing is most useful for firm and extra-firm tofu; soft and silken types are too delicate to press and are used as they are.
The difference comes down to water content and how the tofu is set. Silken tofu is undrained and unpressed, leaving it soft, custard-like and prone to breaking, which suits soups, sauces and desserts where a smooth texture is wanted. Firm and extra-firm tofu has been pressed to remove water, giving it a denser, sturdier texture that holds together in stir-fries, on skewers and when pan-fried. Choosing the right one for the dish is the key to good results.
Tofu is famously mild, which is its strength: it absorbs whatever it is cooked with. Pressing it first lets it soak up marinades more readily, so soaking firm tofu in soy sauce, garlic and other seasonings before cooking builds real flavour. Browning it well in a hot pan develops a savoury crust and chewier bite, while finishing it in a sauce coats every surface. The blander the tofu seems, the more it rewards bold seasoning and good technique.
An unopened pack of tofu keeps until its printed date in the fridge. Once opened, cover any leftover block with fresh water in a sealed container, change the water daily, and use it within three or four days. It should smell clean and faintly beany; a sour smell means it has spoiled. Firm tofu can also be frozen, which changes its texture to a chewier, spongier one that absorbs sauces especially well, though silken tofu does not freeze successfully.